Friday, July 3, 2009

Ready to start! I think!

St. Jean Pied-de-Port charms my socks off. Cobblestones? Check. Narrow winding streets? Check. Window boxes full of flowers? Check. 17th century fortress and cathedral? Check, check. It's actually a little touristy in the center of town, with lots of Basque country souvenier shops, etc., and tour groups panting up the steep hills. But it's sweet and humble enough that you forgive it. I came into town early (1pm) to be sure of getting a place since I wasn't able to reserve. I don't really know if it would have been a problem but I haven't had a decent night's sleep yet and wanted to be sure. There's not a lot to DO here, but I'm tired so I won't care much! There are some people who speak English among the pilgrims, but tomorrow may split us up because I'm only walking as far as Orisson, not all 27km to Roncesvalles. Tomorrow I should only have to walk 3 or 4 hours, but I've heard it's a nice way to start. I'm honestly just not prepared enough that 27km with a big elevation gain would be easy and pleasant. The hostel in Orisson is in the middle of nowhere but they provide half board (dinner and breakfast? I think?) so I just have to carry two days' worth of lunches with me. There's water along the way...
I met a French woman, Estelle, who is taking a taxi over to Roncesvalles and starting there. This is her fifth time doing this, so she knows what she's talking about.
I also met a woman who just finished 40 days of walking (alone) through the French part of the Camino and is done now. She looks to be about 60 and told me she was very proud of herself. I was proud of her too!
The guy sitting next to me now rode his bike here from Frankfurt and continues on to Santiago, about 40-45 days. He did it last year too!
And then there are people like me, who don't know what we're doing at all. I think it'll take a few days to get in the rhythm of these hostel afternoons/evenings... Right now I'm going to find a bite for dinner and then get some sleep. Breakfast is provided by the hostel - at 6am!!!

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